A Study on Beaches

Yes folks, it’s that time again. This time I’m at the Coolangatta airport on the Gold Coast of Australia writing this update. I don’t think it’s quite hit me yet that I’m in Australia. Maybe it’s because I had a red-eye from Kuala Lumpur and got in at 7am and haven’t recovered. Or maybe it’s because it reminds me a lot of different places in the States all rolled into one. Or maybe it’s because it’s so bloody hot that it’s frying my brain and preventing any rational thought. Choose your own adventure.

How was your last part of Indonesia?

Fantastic! Or I should say, fat-tastic. After flying into Jakarta from Bali, I was picked up by my friend Elysia. Immediately we began our eating adventure, which seems to happen every time we hang out. In China on our study abroad group meals; in Singapore when I visited from Hong Kong for a weekend; in San Francisco when we lived in the same city for a year; and now Jakarta! We have an international foodship, and I was happy to add another stamp to my passport.

We had Indonesian food, Korean food, gelato, hot pot, more Indonesian food, and coffee in between each. Massages and movies helped to break up the pace, especially when we managed to order enough for 4 or 5 people between the two of us. We also ended up going to a hands-on museum where they had the Indonesian style of clothes-making called batik. This involves drawing patterns on textiles using hot wax, then dipping the textile in dye and removing the wax to reveal a pattern. Needless to say I was terrible at this, my design coming up in splotches and looking nothing like the original pattern. But damnit, was I focused doing it!

After a too-short two day trip it was off to my next country destination: Australia.

(Ed. Note: At this point my flight had been delayed and rather than finish typing out this post, I decided to watch Netflix and eat pastries. Then I got to Melbourne and got wrapped up in the Aussie Open and more pastries, so pardon the change in tenses and grammar and inconsistencies in timelines…)

I flew into the Gold Coast and proceeded to spend the next three days walking the beach, jumping in the surf, and having at least 2 slurpees a day. By far the best beaches I’ve been to, which prompted me to do a retrospective on the beaches I’ve been to and what they said about each country/area. So without further ado, here’s my extremely scientific and highly accurate and completely unbiased study on beaches (it’s the title!!!)

Japan

No beach time, as it was the middle of winter
Snow on beach and winter surf made for an interesting aesthetic
Ranking: N/A

Taiwan

No beach time, as I spent all the time in Taipei
Ranking: N/A

Vietnam

Minimal beach time while on the boat cruise
Water was cold but a pleasing aquamarine color
Strictly controlled access and heavily populated with tourists
Ranking: 5th place

Thailand

Very small shells made for an uncomfortable walking surface
Beaches were very long and shallow, more akin to marshlands than ocean beaches
Water was a pleasant temperature and had great sunset vistas
Ao Nang beaches: overcrowded and not easy to relax on due to tourists
Koh Lanta beaches: beautiful, less populated, and numerous
Ranking – Ao Nang: 3rd place
Ranking – Koh Lanta: 2nd place

Bali

Sanur had a slightly pebbly beach, and shallow water with calm and infrequent surf
Seminyak had softer sand, larger surf, and trash being washed ashore constantly which was quite disgusting.
Water a nice temperature on both sides, the east having a nice sunrise view and the west having a nice sunset view (duh)
More touristy in Seminyak with thumping beach clubs, while Sanur had more families and spas
Ranking – Seminyak: 6th place
Ranking – Sanur: 4th place

Australia

Beaches are miles long, with white sand so soft it easily brushes off your feet like dust
Intense sun and surf make you feel like you’re living on the edge — adrenaline rush a plus
Water is cold but refreshing, especially in combination with the hot sand and sun
Ranking: 1st place, would definitely go again

So, that concludes my study on beaches. Copies will be available in the next release of the scientific journal Beach Studies for the Modern Age, available at your nearest library. And that’s all of got! Back to more tennis, pastries, and coffee for the rest of my time here in Melbourne. And look for me on your televisions! I’ll be the guy streaking on the court during one of Serena’s night matches.

Until my next post from Australian jail,

Ben

Toot It and Ubud It

Another airport, another blog post. I hope you’re getting a sense of when I’m prioritizing writing these updates. I was planning on writing this last night, but then I found out that all 10 seasons of RuPaul’s Drag Race were on Netflix so…priorities.

Bali was an incredible place and it’s tough to leave. I probably could have spent a month here, but I doubt I would’ve had any water left in my body by the end of it. It’s so tropical and so humid, and this poor, giant, Nordic white man can only sweat so much. Though I do have to say my skin has never looked so great given the constant exfoliation, so that’s a positive.

What did you do in Bali?

Well you know what I did for NYE, which was a unique way to start a year. After getting a solid 4 hours of sleep, I made my way to the beach and lounged for the day. After spending the last week in Thailand, I was a little beached out, so this was my last and only full beach day in Bali. I read, I ate, I swam, I napped, all the things a sleep-deprived and mildly hungover boy should do.

This sounds boring…

Oh shut up, I’m getting to the meat of the story.

I headed up to Ubud the next day, where I would be spending the bulk of my trip. It’s a quiet mountain village where a lot of people go to do Eat, Pray, Love. I had at least one of those on my mind, so I figured I’d go and do a version called Eat, Eat, Eat. It’s also kind of a hippie town, where a lot of people with tattoos do yoga and eat vegan. So, in the spirit of Ubud, I thought I’d give it a try: do a little bit of a detox, eat healthy, practice some yoga, generally cleanse myself of 2018 and start the new year off right.

It feels like there’s a but coming…

Well, if I’ve learned anything on this trip, it’s that most things don’t go according to plan.

I ended up getting a 5-class yoga pass, as doing yoga once a day seemed manageable for me. And it was great! There was a studio in town that had a beautiful venue overlooking the jungle, and I got to try a bunch of different styles, even taking a Yin class for the first time. I don’t know why I’ve never done it before because it’s at night and there’s candles and you close your eyes most of the time and for the first time doing yoga I only sweat a little bit! However, by the last day my whole body was sore from all the yoga, but I was proud of treating my body well.

Seeing that I was doing yoga and sweating all the time, I also didn’t drink while I was in Ubud. I was constantly dehydrated, and it seem counterproductive to be doing yoga and drinking alcohol, so I didn’t. I also decided to eat vegetarian to see how my body would feel if I fully embraced the hippie spirit of the town. And it also was great! There were plenty of good options and I started to feel like I had more energy. So at the end of every day, as I sat on the balcony of my villa overlooking the jungle, reading my book and listening to the night come alive, I’d reach for another gummy bear or piece of candy or chocolate bar and think about how good it was for me to treat my body so well.

So, I had the Eat portion down, which could come as a surprise to absolutely no one. But how about the Pray and Love portions? Well, I experienced something along those lines.

My second day I was up early so I decided to go for a walk. There’s a nice little path that rises above the town and had some nice views of the jungle and some rice fields. It was a nice morning, not too hot yet, and I was jamming to some classic Rachmaninoff (Piano Concerto No. 2), as one does. I had reached the end of the trail with a nice vista but for some reason I decided to keep going. I was on a winding road leading past some cute little villas when I came across something that stopped me in my tracks and gave me full body chills.

Today Is A Good Day. This was Mom’s mantra every day when she was going through chemo. Every day she would find something to be happy about or thankful for, in spite of what she was going through. Today Is A Good Day. This undying positivity and hope that drove her worked its way into our hearts and made us believe it too. We were young and scared and didn’t know what would happen, but her spirit and her attitude made us believe. That though she was sick and frail and suffering, we too could could find joy in each day. And always at the end of every day, she would find something that happened, no matter how small or trivial, that made it a good day. Today Was A Good Day.

Which might be why it made it so much harder when she passed away, because it was harder to find reasons why there would be a good day. If she was no longer here, what was so good about it? But in that moment, on that walk, listening to music that reminded me of her, seeing that sign, I knew I could find those reasons again. This was her sign. This was her way of reminding me. Today Is A Good Day.

So that was my Pray. And as for Love, I’m still not sure what it was, but I know it was sweet and innocent, and very fulfilling.

I ended up meeting a guy from Belarus who was teaching English in China. Which is hilarious because his English was terrible, but he was a funny guy and the broken English made him even more charming. We ended up going on motorbike adventures at night, driving around into the countryside after dinner, looking for waterfalls (which is stupid, I know, but it was an adventure!), and going to tourist destinations when no one else was there (was it illegal, who knows?). I have felt lonely at times on this trip, and it was nice to spend some time with someone and just be. To enjoy the company of someone else, to have an adventure companion, to have a dinner partner. I was sad to see him go, but for the two days we spent together, riding through Bali like a couple of teenage hooligans and making fun of our inability to fully understand each other, it was magical.

Eat, Pray, Love!!

Well, I did my own version of it, which is what I’m finding on this trip. Everything that I do is some weird version of what most people do, through the lens of Ben. It’s not easy, it’s not straightforward, and it oftentimes doesn’t make any sense. And there’ she rally two to three times the amount of food involved. But those are all parts of my life that guide my experiences that make me unique and interesting (slander!). And I’m finding it’s a good thing! I’m starting to embrace that about myself, no matter how messy it may be.

What’s Next?

I’m off to Jakarta to visit my friend Elysia, where the theme for the next couple days will be gluttony realness. After that, I fly off to the Gold Coast of the Australian leg of my adventure. But don’t worry, I’ve got 60 hours of RuPaul’s Drag Race to keep me company, so I’ll be a happy boy. So next time you hear from me, I’ll be in the land Down Under, the land of bloomin onions! That’s a thing, right?

Xoxo,

Ben

Me, Myself, and Thai (pt. 2)

As promised, here’s the follow up post. I’m currently unwinding on a stormy beach in Bali recovering from a sweaty night dancing at a gay bar to ring in the New Year’s Eve, highlighted with drag queens performing to Katy Perry, Madonna, and ABBA and the group countdown starting at 12:07am. Happy New Year indeed.

What have you learned about yourself so far?

Well, for some reason in Thailand specifically, I’ve learned a lot about myself financially. Which is funny, given how inexpensive it was there, but that just brought my habits into even greater relief. I’ve found I’m very frugal (such an ugly word) and will go out of my way to find a good deal. I’ll also do research to make sure I’m not overpaying for anything. And I don’t like to spend money on things if I don’t have to. However, I also found that when I make mistakes, they’re always very costly mistakes.

What was that noise?!?!

That reader, was the sound of the world’s most massive slap to forehead after my dad read that last sentence. He’s known this for a verrrrrrry long time and I’m sure is just thrilled I’m figuring it out now.

Let me give you some examples to show you what I’m talking about:

Did I research and find a reputable scooter rental with a minimal deposit and a brand new bike? You bet I did.
Did I crash said bike and go over the deposit? Of course I did! Was the bike white and did every little imperfection show? What better color that white!
Did I find a cheap but well reviewed and safe hostel to stay in while in Krabi? C’mon, you know me better than that.
Did I leave a shirt there in a rush to pack and find it adopted by fellow traveler to a better home? You know me, I sure did. Was it a cheap shirt? Hell no, it was my new Lululemon polo, obvi!
Did I always find the cheapest places to eat, even if meant walking an extra 5 minutes to save less than $0.30? Is Michelle Pfeiffer having a career resurgence? (The answer is yes, yes she is)
Did I manage to have 200 baht fall from my pocket while rushing to one of said cheap eateries? Did Michelle Pfeiffer deserve an Oscar for playing Catwoman? (Again, the answer is yes)
Did I find a good deal on a bus ride to Koh Lanta from Krabi? Oh yeah, negotiated 50 baht in savings, baby!
Did I leave my wallet on the porch of the hostel while getting into the bus and have to coordinate with 4 different people to have it sent in a bus after me and pay an additional 200 baht in thank you tips for the people who helped me? *sigh*…yes

So, as you can see, in all of my efforts to be frugal (such an ugly word) I somehow managed to come out even worse. Or at least that’s how I normally view things and beat myself up over. I find I tend to be my own harshest critic, and I’m trying to let that go. And part of that comes with letting these little material losses go to.

The bike? Was only $100 USD in total, including the rental fee. A week of freedom and exploration and feelings of bliss were well worth that.

The lulu polo? It’s just a shirt, and I’ve learned to make sure I’m not rushing when packing my things when I go to my next destination. Which won’t be a hostel.

The cash? It was an investment in the local community. Also, since then I’m no longer looking at prices. If I want to eat something, I go and eat it. Even if it’s $0.30 more.

My wallet? Got it back all in one piece. And I learned that my shorts have a secret zipper pocket I can put my wallet in so I don’t lose it again!

But in the grand scheme of things, nothing has been materially detrimental. I haven’t lost my passport, I haven’t been robbed, I haven’t been hospitalized, and I haven’t been arrested. However, if I have to sleep one more night in a hostel with some asshole who snores, someone’s going to have to provide an attorney to help me fight the impending murder charges.

So, I’ve found a positive in all of these mistakes, and am trying to be more conscientious of and to myself when they happen again, cause I know they will. Here’s to a new year, new changes, and the beginnings of a new me.

And I lied, I’m still fucking pissed about the lulu shirt 🤬.

Happy New Year,

Ben

Me, Myself, and Thai (pt. 1)

Hello reader,

If you didn’t cringe at the title of this latest post then brace yourself because it’s gonna be a bumpy night. I’m sitting in the Bangkok airport right now reminiscing on what an amazing and eventful the last two weeks have been here in Thailand. Traveling down south and getting some solid beach and island time has helped me slow down for the first time on my trip, which has been great. So let me recap for you the last week.

Flew from Chiang Mai into Ao Nang, which is on the beach outside of Krabi, and was there for a couple nights. It reminded me a lot of Puerto Vallarta, being a major tourist destination with everyone peddling you something. It was good for a couple days and got to see some nice sunsets and beaches, but 2 days was more than enough for me. I wasn’t in the mood to party, and I wasn’t 21, so there really wasn’t a lot to offer for me. I ended up taking a bus to nearby Koh Lanta, which turned out to be a great decision. I was originally going to stay a night, but ended up staying 2 extra days because it was so nice and relaxing.

What made it so nice?

It was a less crowded area, given the distance (about 3 hours by car), and not nearly as many parties going on as Ao Nang. And the beaches were so much better than Ao Nang; softer, less crowded, great swimming, and unobstructed views of the sunset every night. Seriously, I have about 8,000 pictures of sunset on my phone, so if you ever need one, let me know.

And here’s where I make a confession, dear reader. I lied to you, and I’m so sorry. I’ve broken a trust between author and reader that I hope to mend going forward. I rented a scooter. Something I said I would never do again. I’m in contact with Pearl trying to smooth things over, but things between us look to be finished for good. Please send me your good thoughts during these trying times.

That actually turned out to be the best idea because it gave me the freedom to roam the island, and most days I was there I just beach-hopped my way down the island. It was so fun, and I got to see a lot of beautiful places. Did I mention the sunsets were great too? Can’t sure if I did, but I’ll make sure to keep referencing them so you get the idea.

I got into a rhythm of driving around on my scooter, having fruit shakes along the way (3 a day, at least), and papaya salad for either lunch or dinner (sometimes both). I also averaged about a book idea while down south (shoutout to San Francisco Public Library ebooks, woot woot!) AND applied sunscreen AND properly hydrated. I almost don’t recognize me, myself.

After sadly saying goodbye to Koh Lanta I made my way back to Ao Nang, preparing myself for a last, quiet, uneventful day. However, my Aunt Mary and Uncle Mike put me in touch with friends of theirs who were in Krabi, and I ended up meeting up with them on my last day. It turned out to be the perfect end to my trip, casually chatting and catching up with them, seeing their beautiful property and enjoying their pool, and ending the day with an absolutely MASSIVE meal at a cool restaurant on a fish pond. I passed out almost immediately on my flight that night, completely satisfied with a little peek into a day in the life of a Thai family.

What have you liked about Thailand?

In no particular order, here’s a list:

Thai food: omg the food was incredible. So fresh and flavorful, from seafood to noodles to papaya salad (obvi)
Fruit shakes: the ratio of the number of fruit shakes I had to the the number of times I said “fuck that’s good” out loud is 1:1.
Sunny weather: didn’t have a bad day while in Thailand, especially down south where it was hot. And when it’s hot there are hot sweaty men walking around with their shirts off, which is quite pleasing.
Sunsets: see pictures, above.
Koh Lanta: such a great island, would recommend.
Chiang Mai: great city with great people and great food.
Beaches: soft sand + warm water + kindle books = happy Ben.
Scootering: so freeing and enjoyable when breezing through the warm air.

What have you not liked about Thailand?

Can’t have the pros with out the cons:

Ao Nang: the constant smell of rotting garbage and hot poop didn’t really do it for me.
Scootering: falling is not recommended.
Humidity: when I got down south I didn’t stop sweating for a week. Everything was wet.
Tourists: loud, unnecessarily talkative, and slow walking. A trifecta of evil.
Families: why bring your screaming spawns of Satan to paradise? Just don’t.
Strollers: when used by slow walking tourists, they are vehicles of the devil.
Hostels: sleeping in a room with 11 other snoring people is not something I want to do again.

I’m sensing that you don’t like people.

Ok yes, I don’t like people because they are literally the worst. Avoid them at all cost. Except Thai people, they’re cool.

All in all, I had an absolutely fantastic time, and learned a lot about myself along the way. But that’s for the second part of this post as this one is already fairly long and I know no one has this long of an attention span.

I’m off to Bali soon for the new year (*tiny violin starts playing*) and will make sure to take lots of pictures of sunsets and fireworks. Who am I kidding, I’m gonna be asleep by 10pm.

See you in 2019,

Ben

Merry Christmas

Hello All,

I just wanted to take a moment and thank you all for being a part of my adventures so far. I’m so grateful to have an outlet to share in what I’m experiencing, as none of you can be here in person to do it with me, unfortunately. Even if you don’t read every post, or just read the first one, knowing that there’s a way for me to reach out and a way for you to receive it is a huge comfort to me. This blog has helped me so much on my journey so far, and I’m so thankful for that.

I’m missing my family a lot today, but I got to have a good FaceTime session with them today. The more I am away, the more I’m understanding that nothing in life is as fulfilling as when you have people to share it with. So thank you for being my people and letting me share with you.

It’s hard to be away, especially on days like today, but I know I’m doing the right thing and your support keeps me going. So Merry Christmas to you and yours. Your existence through this site is a great gift, and I thank you all.

Ok, that’s it for sappy posts. Indifferent irreverence and pointed sarcasm from here on out, ya filthy animals.

Xoxo,

Ben

Adventures in Scootering

So I’m halfway through the Thailand portion of my trip and it’s been an absolute delight so far. After my mild consternation that Vietnam didn’t live up to my expectations, Thailand has been everything I’ve been looking for, and more.

I flew in on Sunday evening, which coincided with the Sunday night market that was being held in the center of Old City Chiang Mai. It covered pretty much the entire downtown area, and was so fun to stroll through in the warm night air. After a couple hours of aimless wandering and being tired from my trip in, I called it a night.

The next day I walked around the Old City and had my first introduction that is the wonder of fruit smoothies. Everything here is in season year round. Everything. Mangoes, coconuts, passion fruit, oranges, strawberries, bananas, EVERYTHING!! It’s probably good I’m leaving soon because I might have developed a slight addiction to them, but it is such a tasty way to beat the heat.

I eventually made my way back to my hotel because I had a date with someone very important. It was a local who was going to show me around, and I was excited because she looked even more gorgeous than her pictures on the internet. I’ve never done something like this before, but I could tell from our first moments together we were going to have something special. Her name is Pearl and it was love at first sight.

That’s right, reader. I, one of the most incompetent drivers to get in a moving vehicle, rented a scooter. Not only did a rent a scooter, but I was going to be taking said scooter over 250km through mountain passes. I clearly survived based upon who is writing up this post. Or so you think…

After getting a good nights sleep and getting on the road early I — wait, who am I kidding. The night before the trip I met a local who owns a bar that stays open the latest in Chiang Mai because he bribes the police. Cut to 2am and me walking out of 7-11 with chips and Oreos as I head back to my hotel to get some sleep. 11am that same day, surprisingly only mildly hungover I finally pull myself out of bed and decide it’s probably best to get on my way.

On the way out of the city there’s a police checkpoint to trap scooterists (not a word, but go with it) who don’t have a license. So, me. Fortunately the guy who rented me Pearl told me what to do, and 200 baht later I was on my mini-adventure. And what an adventure it was. There was something so magical about the freedom of being on the scooter, winding through these gorgeous mountain roads with breathtaking vistas, all set to an Arcade Fire soundtrack the whole way (The Suburbs, Neon Bible, and Funeral, in that order). There were moments of sheer bliss where I would break into spontaneous laughter, incredulous at where I was at that exact moment, scootering through the mountains of Thailand. It was a delightful mix of absurdity and freedom wrapped together.

Eventually I made it to my destination, which is this cute mountain village called Pai. And reader, if you think I make a lot of puns, imagine what the village of Pai can do with a name like that. Everything was a play on words there…AND I LOVED IT!! In terms of visitors who come to Pai, half are covered in tattoos, half are white people with dreadlocks, and 100% are fire dancers. That first night I just explored downtown and Pearl took me to see the sunset at Pai Canyon. It was very romantic.

The next day was an adventure day and I got up early (for real this time) and went on a waterfall hike where I was one of 7 people on the trail that day. Did I wear flip flops? Yes I did. Was it steep and wet and slick? Yes it was. Did I fall on some rocks on bruise your shin while crossing the river? Based upon the specificity of this question, I think we all know the answer. Pain aside, I eventually made it to the waterfall AND managed to not drop my phone in the water while taking a selfie. Thanks in advance for your congratulations.

I explored some more around Pai after that, finding another waterfall, going on a bamboo bridge that led to a Buddhist monastery, just your run of the mill errands as a tourist. Ended the day with another amazing sunset, this time at the feet of an enormous white Buddha on the side of the valley. It was a truly beautiful way to end the day before unwinding at night back in town.

Apparently that night there was some sort of monthly party happening at an undisclosed location that was supposed to end at 5am. I seriously considered going to it, because why not? However, as I was sitting down to dinner mindlessly scrolling through Instagram a video started playing. I spent the first half of it wondering what it was and then halfway through it hit me like a speeding train; it was the trailer for the adaption of Where’d You Go Bernadette. I don’t know if it’s because I wasn’t expecting it, or how much I love that book, or the fact that Mom introduced it to me, but I just started crying in the restaurant. I think part of it was that it reminded me of how incredible Mom’s taste in culture was and how much I relied on her for recommendations. Another part was that she loved the book (as has everyone I’ve told about it, thanks to her) and it made me sad we wouldn’t be able to talk about the movie when it came out. Especially since Cate Blanchett plays Bernadette, who I know she loved. So it was just a freak storm that left me reeling. Fortunately I had ordered a spicy curry and was able to play it off without looking crazy, but it put a damper on my night.

Then I got to thinking what would be more in the spirit of Bernadette than throwing caution to the wind and going to a rave in the mountains of Thailand? While I enjoyed the thought of it, I eventually did what sounded best to me at the time, which was to take a night ride on my scooter. And it was a liberating and soothing ride, with the warm night enveloping me as I breezed out of the village and onto quiet roads, only the moon and the headlamp lighting my way. I had no direction, just took roads as I found them. I can’t remember the last time I just went for a drive; no place to go, no purpose. It was very freeing and I felt at peace when I finally called it a night.

The next day started in darkness as I drove up to a popular vantage point to catch the sunrise. It was a great way to end my time in Pai, as I was scootering along to the next town that day, and had a ride ahead of me. Fleetwood Mac was the soundtrack for this portion, which had more amazing view after amazing view.

And then the inevitable happens: I crash. I’ve ridden on motorbikes twice in my life, and twice I have crashed. Both times I crashed into nothing, I just fell. So in my entire career of operating moving vehicles it is Inanimate Objects/Nothing: 5, Ben: 0. But again, these are very valuable lessons because I now know I will never drive a motorbike again in my life. It was the tiniest of itches that has been scratched, for good.

But how exactly did this crash happen? I’m sure you’re all dying to know. Well, I was pulling out of a viewing area and was heading downhill when I hear a car coming up fast behind me. Being courteous I slow down to 10km/h and pull over towards the shoulder. Well, the road meets the shoulder with a bit of a slope and I can’t maneuver between the two surfaces because again, I’m incompetent, and slide my poor Pearl out from under me. I just had a few scrapes because (SPOILER ALERT!) I was wearing a helmet and long sleeves and pants!! For once in my life I was properly prepared! But I also somehow managed to do the most amount of damage to the bike that one could do at such low speeds. Again, very on brand for me to cause the most amount of financial damage to a vehicle. Wait until the next post to see if I get my security deposit back!

The final day of my scootering adventure was going to be a long one, as I had 330km to drive in one day, and was not feeling super confident given my recent boner. But it turned out to be a glorious day, and being on the scooter with the sun out early in the morning cast a spell on me and I soon forgot all previous issues and cares and let the wind blow them away. Another set of beautiful vistas awaited, and I took my time getting back, stopping in towns for a bite to eat or a coffee and making a day of it. I knew I had to pass by the tallest mountain in Thailand, and after a quick search while having lunch, I found a place on the mountain that was good to watch the sunset. So I pushed Pearl to her limits and gunned it up the mountain. And by gunned it I mean she topped out at about 15km/h. I literally could’ve walked up the mountain faster than she could juice it.

But it was well worth it, as I had amazing views of the surrounding valleys and mountains, and the temple I was watching the sunset from cleared out so I was the only one there. There were beautiful gardens of hydrangeas, which Mom had planted wherever we lived for as long as I can remember. They’re my favorite flower, and it was a comforting token to be surrounded by them as I watched the day come to an end.

I got back into Chiang Mai exhausted and spent the next day unwinding and relaxing around the city. I had another 4 smoothies (no joke) and enjoyed the heat of the day. My final day here ended with another adventure, and I’m happy to report I’m ready to move on to the next place, having given northern Thailand my all, including my skin.

I went to an elephant sanctuary my last day, and it was so fun. There’s a small village that has 3 elephants (2 pregnant mamas and 1 baby) where we got to feed them sugar cane and bananas, give them a mud bath, and then wash them off after that. They’re small Asian elephants, not much taller than me, but they are impressive creatures to see up close in person. Their skin is this funky tough, leathery fold that has black hair sprouting out of everywhere, and their trunks are an absolute trip to see when they’re reaching out for food. The baby would get into peoples sacks to steal food when they weren’t looking, and the oldest mama loved having her trunk pet. It was a nice little adventure, and a great cap on a great trip in Thailand so far. Plus the outfits they made you wear were SUPER flattering :).

I’ve done a lot in the week here, as the 3 hour nap I had after the elephant trip can attest to. I’ve loved my time in Thailand so far, and am still finding moments that bring me immense joy, as well as moments that remind how strong I can be and how I can rely on myself. Now it’s off for a bit of relaxation down in the south of Thailand in Krabi. But I’m sure I’ll find more ways to exhaust myself and put myself in stupid situations, cause it wouldn’t be a Ben adventure otherwise.

Xoxo,

Ben

Miss(ed) Saigon

After leaving the cold of Japan I thought I was moving on to sunnier pastures in Taipei and Hanoi. Boy was I wrong.

You’d think with a phone and access to the internet I could’ve figured out what was ahead, weather-wise. Nope. But, I made the most of it and had a great time.

How was Taipei?

So wet, but so fun. It’s one of the most interesting and quirky cities I’ve ever been to, and I could’ve explored it for a month. It’s effortlessly cool, with so many unique shops, buildings, bars, cafes, and streets. I was walking around and randomly came across this awesome alley.

I also caught up with my old friend Jess who I studied abroad in China with, many moons ago. We picked up right where we left off and she was gracious enough to take me around the city and eat all Taipei had to offer. When I say we left no dumpling unturned I mean that literally. She took me to some awesome local spots for noodles and pineapple cakes, did a bit of sight seeing around town, had some bubble tea, went to a night market, and ended the day at a video game bar playing a dancing game until I was in a full lather. It was an awesome day.

Next day was rainy but I decided to make the trek outside the city to a village called Jiufen. It was the inspiration for one of my favorite movies, Spirited Away. Well, it was even rainier up there and somehow even busier than Taipei was and I didn’t get any good views. I just found a little tea shop, had some dumplings, and hauled my wet self back on the bus to Taipei, defeated by the weather.

I picked up dumplings on the way to the airport the next day (because, c’mon) after my too-short trip to Taiwan. Had an amazing time and looking forward to going back soon.

Ok, but was the weather better in Vietnam?

No reader, it was not.

But did you manage to have fun?

Eventually. But the first couple days were hard, the first time in the trip I wondered what I was doing.

The first day I got in was rainy and cold, which didn’t help getting dropped off on a busy street and getting lost finding my hotel. It also didn’t help that my visa application didn’t get through in time and I had to drop $200 at the Taiwan airport to expedite it and make my flight.

So not a great start, and the first full day I was here it rained ALL day. This was also the first place I didn’t know the language at all, wasn’t familiar with the food, and couldn’t find a quiet area to escape the omnipresent noise of the constant traffic. It was overwhelming and I got back to the hotel wondering what the hell I was doing here.

After a brief pep talk (picture me talking to myself while pacing in the hotel room, sometimes using the mirror for dramatic effect) I decided to book a cruise tour of the bay, and book a flight to Thailand (after checking the weather, of course). I was originally going to go to Ho Chi Minh after a few days in Hanoi, but this weather is depressing and I just need some sun and space. So I listened to myself and made the call. And that’s when I finally started to enjoy Hanoi. The traffic noise didn’t bug me as much, the zipping motorbikes didn’t scare me anymore, and I discovered the wonder of egg coffee.

So you went on a cruise?

I went on a cruise!

No really, what did you do?

I’m serious, I did a cruise in Halong Bay.

And?

It was incredible. Even in the mild weather it was really stunning, with these enormous mountainous rock formations jutting out of the water. It felt like I had jumped into one of those chalk paintings from Mary Poppins and become a part of an ancient painting.

Didn’t love being on a tour getting herded around like cattle and it was jam-packed with Chinese tourists who were visiting for the weekend, which is always a battle of the elbows and patience. But I did get to see a cool cave that looked like some sort of expansion of The Matterhorn from Disneyland.

Ended up having a really great time on the trip and met a fun British couple named Lily and Ben (love those names!) that were doing some long-term travel as well. And surprisingly, the food on the boat was fantastic. And as is custom for all Bens around the world, we had no problem finishing off each and every plate. It was a tag team effort and we did our namesakes proud. The best dish was this fried white fish that came with a passion fruit sauce that was utterly divine. Would not have imagined the combo would work together, but it was heaven.

Also ended up doing some karaoke with Ben, Lily, and a group of French travelers as well. We alternated between French and English songs, and even completely sober it was an absolute blast. There’s something very freeing about singing terribly in front of a group of strangers who are somehow unequivocally supportive. Yours truly managed to murder “All I Want For Christmas Is You”, “Under the Bridge”, “Hey Jude”, and ” Don’t Stop Me Now”. I’m sorry, America.

The next day we went to an oyster farm and kayaked, and for the first time in over a week, I saw the sun! It was glorious and I loved every squinty second of it.

Later that night back in Hanoi, Vietnam beat Malaysia in some of important soccer tournament and it was absolute madness. People were out in the streets partying until well past 2am. It was cute. I managed to watch it at a local shop and witness the madness, which was a blast.

Overall I managed to turn things around in Vietnam and enjoy myself. I wasn’t fully prepared for the hustle and bustle of it all and didn’t get to explore the natural beauty of it as much as I would’ve liked, but I think it would be great to come in the spring/fall and visit again. I’m kinda bummed I didn’t like Vietnam as much as people who’d been before had told me I would, but as soon as I stopped trying to force myself to enjoy it, I ended up enjoying it. I’m trying to shed my expectations about where I’m going, as well as my own imposed expectations of myself in those places, and I’m glad I was able to work through that while in Hanoi, however briefly I was here.

I’d also do a cruise again, which is shocking even to myself. But I find that I like don’t like crowded organized tours, I can’t handle long amounts of grey and rain, and I like to have access to nature and explore as much as possible. All in all I’d say it was a very worthwhile trip and am looking forward to the next step.

Which is?

Thailand! Flying into Chiang Mai next and will spend some time up north before doing the islands in a week or so. And yes, I checked the weather and it’s sunny and in the 70s.

For those of you who made it all the way to the end of this monster post, here’s a little treat for you: I, Benjamin Gullickson, an “adult” male of 29 years of age, went to a water puppet show and had the TIME. OF. MY. LIFE.

With further updates from Thailand to come,

Ben

Sayonara. Ni Hao.

Well that’s a wrap on Japan. After spending the last of my time on the north island of Hokkaido I’m on my way back to Tokyo for the next adventure. I’ve loved my time here and am sad to leave. I feel like Godzilla after destroying Tokyo, except in my case Tokyo is every type of Japanese food. But I’m still Godzilla.

How Was Sapporo?

Soooooooo cold. Fortunately they have ramen shops everywhere, so naturally I took full advantage of that. Considering I packed for a long trip, I didn’t pack any warm weather gear so I resorted to wearing all of my clothes while walking around. That still didn’t helped, so when I report back that I’m sick in the next couple days, you’ll know why.

I walked around the first day and found a nice little park that had a small mountain with a nice view.

When I couldn’t feel my hands anymore I found my way into the Hokkaido Modern Art Museum. It was 2 floors and took about 15 minutes, but surprisingly had some cool stuff. I also found my future husband which happens to be a hot drink dispenser on the 2nd floor of the museum. We spent a lot of quality time together that day.

After getting ramen for dinner that night (shocking) I got up early the next day and explored the seaside town of Otaru. It was cute but cold (surprising, I know) and was beginning to get dusted with snow. Naturally I listened to Christmas music the whole time to get fully into the mood, cause when else am I going to get the chance? Mariah, Whitney, and David Foster’s Christmas albums did the heavy lifting, in case you were wondering. Had some amazing sushi there, a delectable double-cheese cheesecake, and the cutest little store that had Miyazaki merchandise. 10/10 highly recommend Otaru.

I had the first change of plans on my trip while in Sapporo. While I was only planning on spending 3 days there and flying back to Tokyo yesterday, I ended up staying an extra night. The reason being was I wanted to ski, but there was a warm front that started when I get there, and was supposed to get snow the day I left. After some hemming and hawing, I decided I had nothing to lose, and the whole point of the trip was to do what I wanted to do. So I said fuck it, changed my flight, got another night at the hospital, and went up to a local mountain in the morning.

Good for You! How Was Skiing?

First off, here’s a picture of what it looked like when I got up there.

Now here’s a list of questions I’m sure Dad (and Mom, obvi) would ask, answered for your benefit.

Did you have snow gear? No, rented it there. Skis 2 sizes too small and jacket and pants only 1 size too small.

Did you have warm clothes? I bought long underwear from Uniqlo that was barely 3/4 length

Did you have the right socks? Nike tube socks, baby.

Did you wear a helmet? Oh, did I ever. Wait for the pic.

Did you tell anyone where you were going? The ramen guy. And the lady at 7-11.

Were there a lot of people there? Maybe 200. And only one white person 🙂

Did it snow a lot? 12 centimeters while I was there.

Was it windy? Was Helen Hunt the star of the movie Twister?

Most importantly did you have fun? I had the TIME OF MY LIFE!

It was the most unreal skiing I’ve ever done. There were only 2 lifts open and 6 runs available for skiing, but every run was entirely composed of powder. It was so deep in parts that it came up mid-thigh, and unless I was going fast enough, would stop me in my tracks. I also fell about 5 times because I didn’t have the right skis (so may surprises in this post, I know) but they were the most luxurious and tender falls I’ve had in my short life. It was an honor. Finding the skis was another matter though, considering they were buried in a meter of snow.

I broke out in laughter a few times on the mountain because it was so surreal to be doing something I wanted to, in a place far from home, with conditions unlike any I’d been in before. It also made me realize how much Mom would’ve loved being up there, ripping through the powder and making it look so effortless. It also made me think of Maureen down at the lodge, knitting and working on her second cup of coffee. I had the most wonderful day with them and cherished every minute of it.

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After a final meal of ramen (I swear I don’t have a problem) I’m now back at the Tokyo airport on to my next stop: Taipei. Japan was just incredible, and can’t wait to come back. A place of amazing beauty, history, politeness, taste, and adventure that has been a dream of mine for a while that finally came true. It was a delight and a great international start to this journey. I feel myself becoming more confident and capable with each day, and each discovery and adventure in turn waking things in me that have been dormant for a while. I’m excited to see how this continues.

Have a great rest of your weekend!

Xoxo,

Ben

Japanese Unicorn*

I’m writing this at a French restaurant in downtown Kyoto that serves wagyu beef and has an hour limit on all-you-can-drink wine after spending a day getting lost in the mountains, so bear with me on this update. *cracks knuckles* let’s do this.

How’s Japan?

Amazing. Incredible. And so exhausting. In the 6 full days I’ve been in Japan I’ve walked 106 miles. Today was the first day I got a foot massage and reader, let me tell you, I feel like a new man. It’s been killer on the feet but I find it’s the best way to sightsee. I’m also realizing I’m not meant for this country because not only do I keep hitting my head on doorways, but I’m stopping so often I look like Quasimodo.

What Have You Done So Far?

Here’s some highlights:

Average distances walked per day: 28km

Temples visited: 73

Meals eaten: 18

Meals that were exclusively bread: 14

Instances of public nudity (onsen): 3

Buddhas seen: 25

Geishas seen: 3

Top speed: 320km/h

Pictures of leaves: 8 million

How Was Tokyo?

So fun. The first day there I went to the fish market and had sashimi for breakfast at 6am. Then I wandered around and ate bread (obvi) and visited a few temples. I made my way to the national museum, which had some great pieces that dated back to 22BC. Also, lots of buddhas.

The next day I went to an amazing multimedia art installation tailored for millennials and moths. It was honestly so beautiful and mesmerizing. After that I explored some more commercial areas and some beautiful parks

My last day in Tokyo I did some more parks, then took the train down to a small town in the mountains called Hakone. The day after I took a train, tram, cable car, ship, and bus on a scenic loop around the area, with amazing vistas and iconic photo ops. I then hit up an onsen (google it) and rested my weary laurels. And from there I caught the Shinkansen down to Tokyo with Mt Fuji keeping me company along the way.

And How’s Kyoto?

I love it here. It’s super touristy, but more manageable than Tokyo. There’s literally thousands of shrines and temples, and the changing of the leaves is one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen.

My first day here I saw a famous temple (most definitely NOT worth it) but went on a hike that had monkeys and leaves aflame (most definitely worth it). I also explored a bit around downtown and ate some bread (SHOCKING, I KNOW).

Today was my last full day here and was a mixed bag. I couldn’t be there in person for my grandma Maureen’s memorial service, but ended having my own makeshift ceremony instead. I started off reading her beautiful obituary in a cafe and had a wonderful moment of remembrance at a Shinto shrine during the actual ceremony. From there I found a random hike in a park and, propelled by Brahms’ Symphony No. 1 in C Minor, Op. 68, had another spiritual experience.

I started listening to the symphony at the shrine and every beat, key change, and movement aligned perfectly with the journey I took on the trail, with the rain deterring any other interlopers and the leaves providing the most poetic backdrop. The solo climb took me to highs and lows I haven’t felt in a while, crescendoing with the end of the symphony syncing with the end of the trail at the perfect time, with the most stunning view. It was such a cathartic and enriching experience; sadness in fully coming to terms with what I’ve lost and profound joy in appreciating who she was and what she meant to me. It couldn’t have been more perfect.

Ok Wordsworth, What’s Next?

I leave for Sapporo tomorrow, and have no idea of what I’m to do there. But never fear, bread and ramen are sure to be in my future! And hopefully monkeys too, they were pretty awesome. Until next time!

Ben

*The title of this post comes from a name a stolen from a fellow traveler wherein one hits their head so many times in doorways the develop a bump. Hence, Japanese Unicorn

Aloha. Konnichiwa.

This is what it looks like when you spent 2 weeks in Hawaii and your Aunt Mary ran you ragged all up and down the island. I sure need a break from all the activity, but am sad to say goodbye. I always love coming here and couldn’t have thought of a better place to jump off from.

How Was Hawaii?

Ah-MAH-zing. Couldn’t have had a better time. In the two weeks I was here I managed to go on 10 hikes, paddle in a Hawaiian outrigger 5 times, go snorkeling at 7 different beaches, attend a traditional Hawaiian luau, go see the new caldera of the volcano, and have 31 shave ices. Ok, so my numbers might be a little off, but it was jam packed and so much fun. The best part was staying with my aunt and uncle, who are the best hosts a growing boy could ask for. And by that, I mean they plied me with hearty breakfasts, homemade curries, guacamole from neighborhood avocados, fresh papaya and passion fruit, pies, cookies, and the best ahi tuna steaks you’ve ever had in your life. Oh, and they’re pretty entertaining people too…

I had a moment on my last day here while hiking into Waipio Valley that echoed a memory of when I left home to go to college. It was this mixture of sadness and excitement knowing that I was closing one chapter in my life and starting another one. More specifically it’s like I’m leaving a version of me behind and building a new one. I’m scared of leaving important parts of myself behind, but I know this is something I have to do in order to grow and change.

What’s Next?

Did you not see the title of the post?

Ok, Where Are You Going in Japan, Jackass?

Well, friend, I’m flying into Tokyo where I’ll spend 3 days. Then I’m going to a mountain town called Hakone for a night that is on the way south to Kyoto. Then I’ll continue on to Kyoto where I’ll spend 3 nights. After that, I’m flying up to Sapporo for 3 nights, then back down to Tokyo for a night. You’ll have to wait for my next post to see where my travels take me after that.

What Are You Doing in Japan?

That’s what the 9.5 hour plane ride is for. JK, I’m really going to be watching 8 million movies. I figured I’d meet some people at the hostel in Tokyo and get some advice. Otherwise I’m just going to wander around and stumble onto something interesting. In Hakone I’ll be seeing the changing leaves. In Kyoto I’ll be going to some temples and hot springs. And in Sapporo I’m going to be eating gallons of ramen, and hopefully try and go skiing if there’s snow. Any advice on places to go/things to see in those cities is more than welcome.